Up before sunrise again (is it a record?), but at last we can relax a bit and start to take our time. After a cup of tea we heat water for a proper wash, which we do standing naked on a tarp on the leeward side of the truck (strong winds again). It also happens to be the side nearest the road. Peter thinks we need a strategy if a vehicle goes past. I suggest waving. Washed, dressed, breakfasted, truck swept and tidied, we set off northward at about 9am.
We enjoy following the route as prescribed, detouring to Whitulania Creek for coffee. Burke named this King's Creek. It was a very fortuitous discovery for the Expedition, after they decided to leave the Diamantina River. Although it was dry, there were waterholes from which they topped up their water. It also ran north south, in the direction they wanted to go. At the moment it has a surprising amount of water in it, which the Expedition would have relished.
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| Whitulania Creek, with water |
We follow the Coorabulka Road further north, through the flat plains and clay pans which King described as sterile and gloomy. Trying to imagine walking across this unchanging landscape, day after day, in the heat of January, with limited food and water and with no idea when it would end fills one with respect for the explorers. It also helps you understand Wills' excitement at crossing the Tropic of Capricorn. Not only is it a major milestone for a navigator, but he hoped it would bring some change in the landscape. Which it does - although the plains are still flat, creeks occur more often and there are far more trees, including an area full of the rare Acacia Peuce.
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| Acacia Peuce by the road |
We reach Boulia at about 4:30, find a laundromat, do our washing, have a coffee at the Information Centre and talk about a possible book sale, then head south again as directed by the book to go closer to the Expedition route. We camp beside the Burke River. Another lovely clear night.
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